In the first instance, you prefix the word 'the' with 'Bowline' which in fact should be 'a' type of Bowline (not 'the' Bowline). Perhaps it would be good to write more about the bowline variants climbers actually use, as I haven’t seen those above in the wild. Reply: This statement is factually incorrect. Just as a security note concerning the phrasing of the question: This knot can not be called a very safe knot, certainly not a completely safe knot (the existence of such a thing is generally debatable). But it is known that this type of Bowline is not secure - so why base your article on a structure that is already known to be insecure? By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie Policy, Privacy Policy, and our Terms of Service. Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience. You are publishing your article to the world via the internet and as such, you need to make sure that the information you convey is accurate (which it is not). And why? However, given its complexity, I guess it is less likely to come undone than even Yosemite Bowline, whereas it is definitely more awkward and slower to tie. Variants will be referred to by their respective titles. In contrast, #1047 Figure 8 is neither ‘PET’ nor jam resistant. Bowline knot, end at the inside or outside? The Bowline knot (and its variants) have two advantages over Figure-of-Eight, that is, it is easier to untie, which is handy after the knot is heavily loaded (by falls), and is marginally quicker to tie. But that all comes down to muscle memory and familiarity. How safe is the bowline knot in different situations? Source: An Analysis of the Structure of Bowlines, Mark Gommers. It is NOT to declare knot A versus knot B in a pull-it-till-it-yields test and declare the winning knot as somehow ‘better’ than the ‘losing’ knot. Quote from Masa: Contact Lee's Locker on Messenger. Knot strength is irrelevant – it is an urban myth. In the context of rock climbing, compared to a figure-8 knot, bowlines are: Both the figure-8 and a bowline (and its variations) will fail if loaded in the manner your picture indicates. I have address this issue on the updated paper. There is some limited data from a 2016 German study on climbing gym accidents, and the findings reported that “the most serious crashes were all due to mating failures – a proper and consistent partner check could easily prevent such accidents”. Yosemite Bowline has a follow through of the rope-end via the knot itself. For example, if you want to compare particular off-road 4WD (SUV) vehicle against another vehicle, you need to select another 4WD (SUV). Is there any way to average resistors together to get a tighter overall resistance tolerance? There are many different types of 'Bowlines'. That is, no further tail maneuvers are required to lock down the structure (eg by adding a further ‘stopper / backup’ knot). However, I do not think it is less likely to come loose than the standard Bowline. That means, considering any stopper knots are not reliable for a long term, there is a small chance the rope end may come undone. However, there is a significant risk for the knot. That means the acceptable probability of mistying the harness tying-point is smaller than 1 in 10 millions, or 0.00001%. Genuinely scary. "Anyhow, the primary point of the article is that Bowline, including Yosemite Bowline, is much more insecure than Figure-of-Eight, especially in the course of a long day." The research is all here, but what climbers choose to do with it is entirely up to them. Furthermore, the failure mode you describe in your video is incorrect. And it is critically important to understand that there is nothing wrong with that fact – there is nothing sinister going on. Some have made spurious claims as to the inherent weakness of bowlines, but it should be remembered that all knots weaken cordage to some extent. Which knot for climbing: figure eight, yosemite bowline, bowline on a bight? I learned the end-bound single bowline, and I’ve discovered that it’s a marvelous knot in many ways, one for connoisseurs. 5. The answer is the same as with many climbing conundrums – it depends. Bowline is significantly weaker than Figure-of-Eight (the experimental results vary a lot, but as a rule of thumb, Bowline seems to be 10-20% weaker than Figure-of-Eight), though this point is in a vast majority of cases in climbing not a serious concern. The failure mode is induced by pulling on the tail before the core of the knot has been properly cinched tight. I recommend that you review the paper on ‘Bowlines’ at this link: A competent diligent climber would undertake a partner check BEFORE commencing climbing - to check things such as their tie-in knot. What's the "Yosemite backup"? Your question is a very good one. In short, the way Yosemite Bowline rethreads the rope-end in its knot is arguably undoing what Bowline is tied. The primary advantages of all ‘Bowlines’ is that they are Post Eye Tiable (PET) and totally jam resistant. Under load, it does not slip or bind. weighing and unweighing the rope). Another point I would like to make is that innovation and progress should be encouraged – not discouraged.

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